Week 4 – Two steps back
After taking three rest days after cutting my foot on a break way out of my league, I stuck a compeed (A blister bandage, a…
Week 3 ii. – Biting Off More than I Can Chew
We headed out to Outside Lefts aka Angry Lady, and after a previously good session there, I thought I was ready to surf that break.…
Week 3 i.– Generating Speed
Week 3 started off with a massive ding in my 6’0” 40 litre board called “pig” on the surf camp. I was pretty bummed out…